Stages 2 and 3: Espinal to just beyond Zubiri then on to Pamploma.

It was 10.00 am before I was able to leave for what was to be an epic day on the trail, due to an important online meeting back in Aus. Little did I realise what I was in for! A day of ups and downs! 😅

It was a bit of a bleak start to my hike, but I love walking in the rain so onwards and upwards I went. The trail meandered through a beautiful forest with so much moss – it was enchanting.

It was so nice to walk alone, and just listen to the sounds of the forest.

It was a steep hike up a mountain from Espinal and then an even steeper (and more slippery) hike down to cross the Rio Erro. Thank you, hiking poles! 😍. Oh, the mud. And the rocks. Yep, that’s why there’s exclamation marks on the steep descents in the map above! And why there’s no photos of the steep ascents and descents on this precarious day on the trail!

After passing through the village of Viskarreta, it was up another mountain and then the incredibly steep, wet, muddy, rocky descent. I somehow managed to stay upright, as I’m in my element with rock hopping and mud, but many pilgrims had muddy bums at the end of the day, and my new Canadian amiga, Marian, slid all the way down the last hill into Zubiri! It’s ok. She wasn’t hurt. But oh the laughter as she regaled us with the story at dinner that night.

It was right on 4.00 pm when, exhausted, I crossed the bridge into Zubiri and I faffed around looking for lunch which ended up being a Mars Bar from a vending machine and a seemingly endless search for an ATM that was right in front of my nose.

I finally arrived at Hostel Aka y Alla, a few kms on from Zubiri, by 5.30 and I’ve got to tell you, that cervaza went down well!

The host Jesus (pronounced with an h) had the best sense of humour and his comments through his Google Translate app were hilarious. He was a fabulously good cook too!

It was a night of outrageously good fun, partly at the expense of Jerry, who absolutely owned being a stereotypically loud, obnoxious American (his words) – milking it with comedic genius. And yes, we gave it back it him! So much fun at the end of a grueling day. And he was just the same at breakfast… Jerry will be forever ‘Dennis the Menace to me – just the grown up version.

Stage 3: On to Pamploma

The drizzle continued as we set off towards Pamploma. Hugging the beautiful Ria Arga, the trail meandered through the countryside and I spent the time chatting to Marcie, a Canadian woman who is as a very experienced hiker. She taught me so much about how to adjust my backpack and hiking poles to prevent injury. Thank you, Marcie!

We parted ways when the path began to climb quite sharply as I didn’t want to hold Marcie back. My hill fitness is still a work in progress.

My Camino amigos messaged me to say that they’d stopped in a bar in Burlada and kindly waited for me to have ‘una cervaza’ and a bite to eat with them before they left for Pamploma. I can tell you that I very much regretted that beer because it was much further than I thought to my accommodation and I couldn’t get the key into the door of my room fast enough! But I did take the time to take a quick pic of the huge Bullfighting arena for which Pamploma is famous.

That evening I met up with my Camino family ( yes, it’s really a thing) for Pintxos, more commonly spelt as Pinchos on the Tapas Strip of Pamploma. I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a busier place on a Saturday night! And the food was incredible! And so great to try things I’ve not eaten before. But the Spanish do like to add egg to a lot of dishes. 😏

I was a party pooper and back in my room by 9.30. Oh, how I’ve changed! But the next day was going to be a big one, walking wise, that is.

Next stop – Uturga on the way to Puenta La Reina! I was SO looking forward to arriving at this beautiful village.